Arrivederci Italia!

With a hint of sadness I said my goodbyes to Vernazza (by climbing up to the cemetery for a final view of the pretty harbour) before boarding the train north to Milan. I timed my departure well. The temperature has been consistently in the mid 20s and mainly sunny throughout my two weeks in Italy, but on this day it started raining. The train afforded some fantastic views of the Ligurian coastline, with waves pounding the shore and rain belting down. The scenery as we approached Genoa was wonderful. Then the train headed inland through lots of tunnels and mountains towards Milan.

My arrival in Milan late in the afternoon meant I only had time to visit the city's famed Duomo. Despite having seen countless cathedrals, the Gothic style, sumptuously detailed facade and embellished interior ensured it stood out from others in Italy.

From Milan

There is a fascinating sculpture of St Bartholomew carrying his own skin! You can also walk onto the cathedral's roof for great views of Milan and a close-up view of otherwise unseen sculptures, and pinnacles and spires set upon flying buttresses.

I ended the day by strolling through the shopping district (window shopping only, unfortunately) and then found a pizza place that made the biggest pizzas I've ever seen! It did not fit on the plate! Although I have eaten more than my fair share of pizzas, they are the cheapest dining option in Italy.

The following day I began my marathon journey back to London by train ... well, three long-distance and two underground trains actually! The first took me past gorgeous Lake Maggiore (not far from Lake Como) through the Simplon Tunnel (one of the longest railway tunnels in the world at almost 20km) into the Swiss Alps. After swapping for a Swiss train crew and engines, the train weaved its way through valleys to Lake Geneva, the largest natural freshwater lake in western Europe. Another beautiful site. I got off in Lausanne, and stepped for the first time onto Swiss soil (if only for a brief sojourn outside the train station).

Next was the French TGV, and another change of scenery as the train headed through farmland and vineyards in Burgundy (stopping in Dijon) and finally onto Paris. I navigated my way by the underground RER train from Gare de Lyon to Gare du Nord for the Eurostar to London.

I left Milan about 8:30am and by the time I arrived home in London it was almost 10:30pm. A long day, covering four countries and an estimated 1140km, but worth it for the views! A fairly relaxing way to see quite a bit of western Europe, and with a small carbon footprint compared to flying. I wish I was a man of leisure and had unlimited funds to travel forever, but alas, it's back to work tomorrow. So, this blog can once more become "Musings on London life", as promised. : )

Into the big, deep blue

Today I went swimming in the Mediterranean. After sleeping and waking to the soothing sound of the sea, I decided to go swim in it (having completed the Cinque Terre trail in one day and with nothing else on the itinerary). But I decided I wanted to go a quiet beach, and that is something most Cinque Terre beaches are not. Vernazza has a tiny little beach in the harbour, but the harbour is surrounded by a piazza with restaurants, and hence lots of tourists. Monterosso, one town north, has long sandy beaches, but is the most popular swimming destination in the area, and as I saw yesterday is swarming with visitors for the most of the day. Therefore I decided to go to a beach I spotted on the Cinque Terre walk between Corniglia and Vernazza that I’d read about.

I figured not many people would be bothered to make a trek to go to a beach. I was right. There was just me and three others! So it was lovely and secluded, although rocky (lots of little pebbles), a bit like English beaches I suppose. It was also arduous to reach, having to clamber down the side of very steep hill and across shale on precarious, scary cliff edges, which looked subject to landslips. However, (as the fact I’m writing this) I made it down safely although sweaty. And I went swimming! Admittedly it took me about half an hour to fully immerse myself. It was a little cold and a little intimidating with no one else in the deeper water and just me and the Mediterranean, surrounded by lots of large rocks. I spent a good couple of hours there, mostly reading my book rather than in the water. Interestingly, the area is also known as a nudist beach, but this is optional, one I did not take up. A couple of others did! The journey back up the slope was even harder in the afternoon sun and I was drenched with sweat by the time I made it to Corniglia to catch the train back to Vernazza. I ended the day with a stroll around Vernazza, some bread and local pesto and the last drop of Cinque Terre wine!

From Cinque Terre

The Cinque Terre coastal walk

The Cinque Terre coastal walk is stunning. The path takes you up and down along the rugged coastline and to each of the five villages along the way, each with their own character. I had planned to do the walk over two days, but after making it from the southern most village of Riomaggiore to Vernazza, where I am staying, I decided to tackle the last (and hardest) stretch north to Monterosso on the same day. It took me about five hours, including photo stops and a coffee break, to cover the 9km. Pretty happy with that effort!

While the walk is lovely, don’t expect to be alone. I came across a couple of hundreds fellow walkers, mainly Americans and Germans (does Rick Steve have a German equivalent?!). The southern stretch of the walk is the easiest, with a wide, paved track, but this gradually becomes harder as you head north, the path becomes narrower and steeper, with hundreds of steps. There was a time when the path was the only way to travel between the villages. Nowadays the train covers the same distance in less than 20 minutes! But then the train doesn’t have to scarper up the cliffs, it goes straight through tunnels.

From Cinque Terre

The scariest section was between Vernazza and Monterosso, with lots of very narrow sections dropping steeply down one side. Unfortunately I encountered a very large student group in this area, having to wait for about 50 students to pass before being able to continue. The advantage of setting off early is that it was relatively quiet along the track and at the first couple of villages, but by the time I reached Vernazza, the place was packed with tourists. Many arrive by boat or train from nearby Portofino. The stretch of track between Vernazza and Monterosso was also the busiest (possibly because it was the afternoon), and tempered the experience to a degree. When I arrived in Monterosso, the largest of the towns, I couldn’t believe the number of school groups I found. Hundreds of students, almost all German (not sure why the Cinque Terre is such a destination for German students?). They left en masse on a ferry not long after I arrived.

From Cinque Terre

Now I am back at my room, sitting on the balcony listening to the waves crashing below and contemplating dinner. Oh, and I am sipping some of the local white wine. This is what they mean when they say Italians enjoy La Dolce Vita! Just what I needed after my jam-packed schedules in Venice, Florence and Rome.

Arriving in the Cinque Terre

The vagaries of the Italian transport system meant I arrived in the Cinque Terre (five villages) later than expected. The only way to reach most of these villages is by train, boat or on foot. All was quickly forgiven when I saw the view from my accommodation. After a steep climb up narrow, winding passages and dozens of steps through the village of Vernazza, I reached the little house where I was staying, perched on the side of a hill. Out the window, a glorious view of the Mediterranean. Beautiful! There’s something magical about water that fills me with a sense of serenity. I can hear the waves crashing on the rocks below my bedroom window now.

From Cinque Terre

The people of Vernazza have a lot to thank (or hate) Rick Steve for. His guidebooks have put the Cinque Terre on many traveller’s map, particularly with the US market. Consequently the place is full of (predominantly) American tourists, many bearing Rick Steve’s guides as evidence. And even though Vernazza has come to cater to the hundreds of tourists who visit each day, it has not lost its special charm. The cobbled pathways, quaint harbour, jagged cliffs and precariously perched houses create a wonderful ambiance. And the pesto (a local specialty) is delicious!

Rome: What lies beneath

I made a determined effort to fit in one more sight on my final afternoon: a church. Not another one, you may say. But this was unlike any other. It was a church, above a church, above a church. You start with the current Basilica of San Clemente, on ground level, and then descend and as you do go back in time to the basilica of the 4th Century. And if this wasn’t amazing enough, you go down again to find a pagan temple and other rooms from the 1st Century complete with their own running spring (which still flows). Out of nowhere, this late entry stormed to the front of the pack. What an awesome way to appreciate ancient Rome, and very much off most tourist itineraries. I will be recommending this experience to anyone visiting the Italian capital.

Reconsidering Rome

It's now my fourth and final day in Italy's capital, and Rome has grown on me. I still think it's a harder city to warm to than Venice or Florence, but if you find the right places it certainly has an appeal. Obviously it's bigger and busier than other Italian cities, and also has more beggars and a daunting number of tourists. It can be disenchanting when you walk miles only to hear English, see others carrying guidebooks and find more restaurants with menus in multiple languages. Where do the locals live? I think you have to go some way outside the city centre, although today I did manage to find two welcome escapes. The first was the Borghese Gardens in the city's north, a large public park with plenty of space, trees and water fountains to get away from the crowds and relax.

From Rome

While strolling back to my hotel around lunch time, I came across an area with lots of little cafes popular with Italians. I think it was a business type area, and much more pleasant/upmarket than the area I'm staying in (which is filled with lots of cheap hotels). The food (quiche with vegetables) way yummy and much cheaper than other places I've been. It was the first place I've found in Rome that did not cater to tourists.

Gratefully, I was forced to relax today. I say forced because almost all the museums in Rome are closed on Mondays. I still squeezed in quite a few sights this morning, including The Pantheon, Spanish Steps, Piazza Navone (a large square featuring a famous water fountain by Bernini the Fountain of the Four Rivers), and one of the city's only Gothic churches (most are Baroque), Santa Maria sopra Minerva.

From Rome

The previous two days have been jam-packed and worn me out. Saturday I went on a five-hour guided tour of the Vatican Museums and St Peter's Basilica. It might sound like a long tour, but such is the size of the museums, that you really only scratch the surface. Nonetheless, they are very impressive and, once more, taking a guided tour was worthwhile as the guide gives a lot of the context and background that gives meaning to the paintings, frescoes, tapestries, mosaics, sculptures and buildings. It also worked well having been on the Uffizi tour, as the Vatican tour built on my understanding of the various art periods, particularly the Renaissance. The guide provided a lot of intriguing details on artistic techniques, such as how frescoes are created, which gave me a new found appreciation for them. This all led up to the Sistine Chapel with Michelangelo's frescoed ceiling and his Last Judgement.

St Peter's Basilica is very impressive, with the largest interior of any Christian chruch in the world. Michelangelo's pieta is quite breathtaking, and I was glad to see this not long after appreciating Il David in Florence. However, I did find Bernini's bronze furnishings a bit much. I would go so far as to call them gaudy. Hope that's not sacriligeous! I can now say I definitely prefer Renaissance art and architecture over Baroque.

From Rome

Yesterday (Sunday) I took guided tours to the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill. The Colosseum is such an Italian icon and on a huge scale. What an engineering feat! Our tour guide Ian, an archeologist from Liverpool, brought the venue to life with gladiatorial stories and a captivating philosophy on the human fascination with death, suggesting that we have not changed as much as we might think since the time of the Romans.

From Rome

Next was a visit to the nearby Roman Forum, the central area around which the ancient Roman civilization developed. It's hard to comprehend how old this place is, with structures here in the 7th Century BC. Ian also did a wonderful (scouser!) rendition of Shakespeare's Julius Caeser, when Brutus and Antony were addressing the crowds in the very Forum where we stood. There can be few better ways to appreciate the story!

After lunch was the final part of the tour, Palatine Hill, sited above the Forum. I think this was the highlight of the day, and probably of my visit to Rome. This is where the original Romans lived, and you can walk through the remains of dozens of buildings. I think this is where Ian's training as an archeologist came to the fore, as he explained many of the innovative Roman building techniques and revealed how advanced their technology was. This included earthquak resistant building foundations and flushing toilets! He also helped you imagine how impressive many of the structures once were and with a splash of water revealed how a seemingly dull tile was extraordinarily beautiful beneath the dust.

I finished the day with a trip to Trastevere (translates as across the Tiber), a working-class district full of cafes, bars and restaurants. Unfortunately it has become very popular, and so was near impossible to find a "non touristic" restaurant. I had some hand-made spinach and ricotta ravioli and braved it by trying Trippa alla Romana (tripe, Rome style). I can't say I was a fan. I ate about half of it, and the sauce was nice, but the texture of the tripe was a bit off-putting. I also visited a beautiful church, Santa Maria in Trastevere, where I caught the end of a service. Although I am not religious, the atmosphere created by the choir was wonderful.

One of my favourite things about Rome is coming across ancient structures. You're walking up a non-descript street and suddenly there's the remnants of some ancient Roman building in front of you, with no plaque or explanation, because there are so many of them!

All roads lead to ...

I read a few travel guides that recommended starting any tour of Italy with Venice, then Florence before following all roads to Rome. I think they were right, as Venice is quite a relaxing introduction to Italy, partly because there is no traffic. Rome by comparison is full on, not only because of the cars and people but it just has a more intense feel. It is also more arduous to get around (there was a partial strike on the Metro on my first day!) as it is much larger than Venice or Florence and is somewhat dirty by comparison. Gritty is perhaps an apt word. That’s not to say it’s not an amazing place, it’s just that it could be slightly overwhelming.

After finding my hotel and freshening up (I needn’t have bothered, the tram I caught straight after was so full and humid I was sweaty again within moments), I headed to Capitoline Hill to see the Capitoline Museums – the oldest museums in Rome. These museums (there are two, on opposite sides of the Piazza del Campidolgio but joined by an underground passage) are full of outstanding Greek and Roman sculptures, including the famous she-wolf Lupa Capitolina suckling Romulus and Remus (the founders of Rome). There are great paintings too by the likes of Caravaggio, Velazquez and Titian. You also get to visit an ancient Roman temple beneath the square and are rewarded with an amazing view looking out onto the Roman Forum - the remains of the ancient city’s civic heart. I would have spent a good three hours exploring these museums, and it was a relaxing escape from the hot and busy city streets.

From Rome

After this I made my way to the Trevi Fountain, which is beautiful, although this is tempered by the fact it is overrun with tourists.

Cycling through Tuscany

Yesterday was certainly a highlight (another one!), a bike ride through Tuscany! As luck would have it, the one day that I picked for this tour was the day it was meant to rain. Every other day has been glorious. However, the slightly cooler weather and slight drizzle proved a Godsend, keeping us refreshed as we pedalled through Tuscan vineyards.

The day started with a drive to a small castle perched high on a hill in the countryside. The castle is also a boutique winery and we sampled their Chianti and olive oil. Yum! Next we got fitted out with bikes (there was 12 in the tour group, mostly Americans and two Canadians, of all ages). The tour was led by two Scottish brothers, Rowan (great sense of humour) on a bike and Andy in the support van, which follows behind.

The start was very easy as it was essentially cruising down the big hill we’d been driven up. Plenty of glorious views across rolling hills, with the occasional villa and winery. It did feel a bit like cheating, because we hadn’t earnt the downhill glide. Funnily enough, the lovely Tuscan countryside reminded me of parts of the Adelaide hills with their vines, and I suppose the Mediterranean climate also plays a role in this.

After a couple of photo stops and seemingly no time, it was after 1pm and we arrived at a ramshackle-looking place, but inside it was a proper restaurant and clearly popular with locals. The menu included some delicious pizza dough balls, risotto and red wine, of course!

From Tuscany

Back on the bikes, and by this time it was spitting, for a leisurely ride along a flat section of the area, past lots of busy wineries. As Rowan explained, drivers are very respectful of cyclists here and give you a wide berth (unlike England and Australia!). It was a great way to see Tuscany. Then we came to the challenging bit, a very steep hill back towards the castle. After Andy talked everyone through it, about half of the group opted to go in the van with the bikes on the trailer. I was determined to conquer the hill. It was very steep (17 degrees at one point) and long, but I made it to the café at the top and first too (not that it was a race!). The feeling was awesome! Admittedly I was drenched in sweat, but it was well worth the effort. The last section was more leisurely, with everyone back on their bikes as we returned to the castle. This has to be one of the best ways to travel and it has got me thinking I’d love to do a two or three-day ride somewhere in Europe. : )

I went back to the B&B to freshen up and then headed for Piazzale Michelangelo, a square on the south side of the Arno River which the B&B owner Danilo assured me had great views. It’s where the photos for most postcards are taken from. Danilo was right. I think the photos say more than I could in words. I ended the day with pizza, wine and gelati!

From Florence by night

Art History 101 followed by Gastronomy

Okay, so I'm two days' behind but it’s hard keeping up a blog when you’re packing so much into each day, so I’m writing this on the high-speed train to Rome.

Forget the art (okay, don't forget it), Florence is a gastronomic feast! I had the most unbelievable spaghetti (Spaghetti a Pomodoro ... very basic with tomato, garlic, olive oil, parmesan cheese, much like the pizza here) as my first course (pasta is normally first course in Italy) with a very tender steak for my main. The steak was bursting with flavour! All washed down with some delicious local Chianti - the house wine. Unlike Australia, house wine here is generally very good. It was so filling I could not manage dessert!

Earlier, I started the day (my birthday) with a walking tour of Florence, which included a lot of the major sights such as the Ponte Vecchio (the “old bridge” across the Arno with shops built along it, the only bridge not destroyed in World War II), Piazza della Signora (the beautiful square featuring the fountain of Neptune, lots of impressive sculptures including a copy of Il David, and the old palace, Palazzo Vecchio), a number of churches and the city’s famous cathedral, the Duomo. Following this I climbed Giotto’s bell tower for fantastic views of Florence and the Duomo’s dome.

From Florence

From Florence

In the afternoon I joined another guided tour (it was part of a package) to Italy’s most famous art gallery, the Uffizi. The Uffizi is one of the most amazing galleries I’ve visited and I think forking out for the tour was worthwhile, both to avoid the queues and for the insights the guide gave us into how art progressed through the centuries (the Uffizi is set out in chronological order). It was sort of like Art History 101! I think the Uffizi was one of the most, if not THE most, impressive art galleries I have visited. Taking a guided tour made a big difference, as the guide was able to take us on a journey into the age of the Renaissance and explain the progression of art as she took as to masterpiece after masterpiece. It gave me a new found appetite for the subject.

Despite being on my own, it was a wonderful birthday!

Fabulous Firenze

Italians really know how to enjoy life, and boy am I enjoying it! I have just returned to my B&B from a nearby pizzeria recommended by the B&B owner. A huge and delicious mushroom pizza with half a litre of vino blanco (I couldn't drink it all), sitting in the square listening to the conversations of fellow patrons (which I couldn't understand because they were all in Italian!). But it was a wonderful atmosphere on a balmy evening. And all for 10 Euros! Bargain!

I am glad I decided to stay in a residential area of Florence (a decision motivated by accommodation costs more than ingenuity), as it is more relaxed and populated by locals rather than tourists.

Earlier today I took my last vaporetto ride through Venice to the train station, where I caught an Italian Eurostar. A comfortable, high speed train. I was sitting with a group of nuns on their way to Rome! I enjoyed the Italian countryside, particularly the Apennine Mountains between Bologna and Firenze (although there were a lot of very long tunnels).

In Florence, the B&B owner Danilo helpfully explained all the recommended sights and good, local restaurants (including the pizzeria and gelateria). I then headed into town to Santa Maria Novella Basilica, which has some amazing works by Masaccio and Giotto, but I particularly liked the depictions of Gregory the Great (so no making fun of my middle name!).

From Florence

Next stop, the Basilica of San Lorenzo, the largest church in Florence and burial place of one of the city's oldest families, the Medicis. And finally I was booked onto a tour of the Accademia Gallery to see Michelangelo's David. It is hard to describe the beauty of this sculpture. I recommend going late in the afternoon (the gallery doesn't close until 6:50pm) so you have a bit of peace to admire the masterpiece.

Ultimo giorno a Venezia (last day in Venice)

Too tired to write a proper blog tonight. So will recap in brief.

Walked to Piazza San Marco (St Mark's Square) quite early. Great to see a lot of locals headed to work, felt more real, and there were less tourists about.

From Venice

Started with the Doge's Palace Secret Itineraries Tour. A wonderful guided tour that takes you to parts of the palace most visitors don't see. Was particularly fascinating to see the cells where Giacomo Casanova was imprisoned and eventually escaped from. Fascinating insight into how the Venetian Republic was a very advanced democracy for its time, but conversely had a torture chamber (which the tour visits) and a most suspect secret service. Following the tour I went through the rest of the palace, which is huge and very impressive, containing more works by Venice's best artists. But there are so many rooms by the end you cannot take any more in!

After a bite to eat was St Mark's Basilica, with its remarkable Byzantine architecture and dazzling gilded mosaics. Although it's free to enter the Basilica, you have to pay to see the Treasury, golden altar screen and museum, but these sights are more than worth the cost, and in most cases get you away from the river of tourists winding through the main part of the church. You get an amazing view of St Mark's Square from the museum.

By this time I wanted to escape the crowds and so headed to San Giorgio Maggiore, an island just a five-minute vaporetto ride from St Mark's, but almost deserted by comparison. Wonderful to find such a serene setting so close to the centre of Venice. The main sight here is the Church of San Giorgio Maggiore, and while the church is worthy, it is the view from the bell tower that dazzles. Photos to follow.

As is my way, rather than call it a day I was determined to fit another sight in. This one was a 40-minute ferry ride away on the island of Burano, best known for lace-making and it's brightly-painted houses. I am so glad I made the trip, as it was a wonderful and relaxing way to end the day. A lovely island to stroll around, with lots of locals talking in the streets and children playing. The day was capped off with a stunning sunset on the ferry ride back to Venice. I hope the photos do it justice

From Italian sunset

I haven't done a good job of recapping in brief, but it pains me to leave all the great details out (mainly in case I forget them!). Tomorrow: Florence!

Venezia: parte due (part two)

Enchanting, captivating, beautiful ... even on my second day, Venice has maintained her hold over me. It's been one of those days in which I've tried to cram a lot in, just so I don't miss out on anything! Sometimes this can be self-defeating, as the constant activity can wear you out and artistic masterpieces can become a blur. Thankfully, I managed to stay on the right side of sanity!

I kicked the day off with my first Italian cappuccino. Quite good and certainly better than the burnt dishwater they serve in old London town! From here it was on a vaporetto to the city's premier art gallery, L'Accademia. A most impressive gallery filled with works by Venetian artists, and definitely worth paying the extra for the audioguide, which explained a lot of the pieces. One of the best known is Paolo Veronese's Feast in the House of Levi. There were also some wonderful works by Giorgione and Gentile Bellini.

From here I headed to the Jewish Ghetto, in fact the world's first ghetto. It was established in 1516, allowing Jews to reside in Venice, but only in the restricted area (the gates to the island were locked at night) of a former copper foundry. The word ghetto is derived from the Italian word for foundry, gettare. I joined a guided tour from the Museum of the Jewish Community, visiting three of the five Jewish synagogues (German, Italian and Canton). It was one of the highlights of the day, particularly learning about the history of Venetian Jews over the centuries, including the Spanish Inquisition, Mussolini and World War II.

From Venice

Venice did lose some of her charm when I came up against the flood of tourists along the main thoroughfares between the train station, Rialto Bridge and San Marco. So many tourists I almost lost my patience! However, I got over it once I was off the beaten track. After an average calzone for lunch, I headed to my first church (no shorts today, as you have to cover up in church), Chiesa di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, mostly shortened to Frari. This is an amazing church, not just for its architecture and intricate wooden choir, but particularly for its art. Titian's 1518 Madonna of the Assumption draws visitors into the apse. Frari certainly has the edge over galleries, because the artwork has been designed for the building's architecture. I should also give (grudging) praise to Rick Steve at this point. I downloaded a few of his free audioguides (podcasts), including for Frari and the Grand Canal, and they made these sights a lot more meaningful. I'm sure the fellow tourists on the vaporetto thought I was missing out on the atmosphere by listening to music, when in fact I was noticing all the sights they missed!

After dropping into nearby Chiesa di San Rocco (Church of St Roch) to see a few masterpieces by Tintoretto, I resolved to fit in another museum ... Ca' Rezzonico, a palazzo on the Grand Canal. I am so glad I did, as it was probably my favourite museum of the day! The rooms bring to life 18th century grandeur and I preferred much of the art to that found in L'Accademia. The only downside is that the palace is huge, and the many artworks and salons can be a lot to take in late in the afternoon. For this reason I decided this was to be my last museum of the day. I caught another vaporetto for a relaxing trip to Lido, a 12km long barrier island where the Venice Film Festival is held. I strolled along the waterfront before returning to my hotel.

Final stop for the night was dinner. I found a cute little bar/restaurant facing onto the water, lights twinkling on the distant island of Murano. I had a lovely prawn, tuna, corn and tomato salad (I needed something light after eating lots of heavy pasta, breads and meat in my short time in Venice), washed down with some white wine. And good value too (comparatively speaking, as Venice is expensive) ... a third of the cost of my dinner the night before! Mind you, I did have two courses on my first night, because I made the mistake of wandering for too long hoping I'd find somewhere better (and less touristy) and ended up getting so hungry I had a headache and was starving! On top of that the restaurant I picked had reasonable food, but the slowest service. One waiter for dozens of patrons. It took 20 minutes to take an order, another 20 minutes for bread, and another 20 minutes for the first course. So I (eventually) appreciated every morsel!

Although I have mentioned some of my favourite museums, none of these have been the best thing about Venice. The highlight (in addition to travelling down the Grand Canal) has been putting my map away, wandering off and getting lost in the streets and passageways. This feels like the real Venice (although just 60,000 Venetians live in the city nowadays), as you cross canals and walk beneath washing hung from windows high above. Magical!

From Venice

Venezia giorno uno ... Venice, day one!

So today this becomes a travel blog rather than one about life in London. I have just started a two-week holiday to Italy, my first visit. I departed Heathrow this morning on BMI, along with a few angry passengers. A late change in the aircraft meant a lot of seats were reallocated and couples could no longer sit together. Some people got quite agitated with the staff. I benefited from the switch, as my choice of seat near the front did not change but it became a premium economy seat instead of a regular one, which gave me more space than I've ever had when flying. Unfortunately there were no free meals or other extras! I was seated next to an older American woman who first visited Venice in 1958 and who was quite demanding of the patient flight crew. There's no way I could be a flight attendant, I would end up losing my cool very quickly.

My decision to check which side of the plane to sit on (the right when facing forward) paid off as I was rewarded with a wonderful vista of Venice and the lagoon (as well as all the gigantic cruise ships) as our plane landed.

Venice is everything it's cracked up to be. Quite magical! Photos cannot do it justice. It's one of those remarkable places to see and experience, and travelling up the canal on a vaporetto (water bus) is an enchanting introduction to the city. It feels like it's still summer here (25C), so I changed into shorts, grabbed a bite to eat and headed to my first museum (the only one for the day as it was already 4:30pm). The Ca' D'Oro, which is one minute away from my hotel. Ca' D'Oro is an art museum featuring paintings, reliefs and sculpture taken from Veneto during Napoleon's conquest of Italy. It is also a lovely palazzo (palace) facing onto the Grand Canal.

After my fill of art, I jumped on another vaporetto and headed to Piazza San Marco. Despite being filled with tourists, it is breathtaking. I would even go so far to say it felt romantic (or perhaps that was just because of the band playing Memory! Not exactly Italian, but never mind). From here I wandered the streets (lots of lovely but expensive shops) and crossed the Rialto Bridge and eventually made it back to my hotel. So here I am, watching X-Factor, the Italian version. A bit sad, but being a tourist is quite tiring. Anyhow, I need to find something for dinner! Everyone at work has been telling me how amazing the food is. Hope it lives up to expectations. : )

From Venice

Anyone for a lolly? (aka Words Part II)

Another strange encounter with words ... one of my work colleagues seems to have an endless supply of snacks at her desk. The other day I mentioned her lollies were yummy and she gave me a strange look. I repeated - again a strange look.

Eventually we established that by her (British) definition, she didn't have any lollies ... she thought I was talking about a lollipop, as a lollipop is called a lolly in the UK.

Confectionery, on the other hand, is known as sweeties! Hence you have sweet shops, not lolly shops in Britain.

Another difference: What Australians call an iceblock is called an ice lolly in England. Strange!

London - a city like no other

London never ceases to surprise and astound me. Despite it's many flaws, it has so much to offer, and it only takes a little effort to reap its rewards. Today I decided to hop on my bike and head somewhere new - Eltham in the city's south east. My destination: Eltham Palace, combining the remains of a medieval royal palace (where Henry VIII spent much of his childhood) with the glamorous Art Deco home of textile magnates Stephen and Virginia Courtauld. But, as I have discovered is often the way in London, the journey was as rewarding as the destination!

Travelling by bike gives you a real feel for suburbs you pass, perhaps more so than speeding through in a car, train or bus. It was my first time traversing the Isle of Dogs (other than on the DLR) before descending into the Greenwich foot tunnel ... what a cool, little tunnel ... like something out of the war! In fact it was built before either of the Great Wars, opening in 1902.

Emerging at Greenwich, one is presented with a plethora of appetising smells, with cuisines from across the world at the local markets. I went for a Peruvian chicken and rice dish. Very tasty! Meantime one gets a superb view across the river to Canary Wharf.

From London and Paris

From Greenwich I tackled a very steep hill (on top of which sits Greenwich Observatory) before heading through Black Heath and a wide range of suburbs, eventually reaching Eltham (almost 15km from Mile End). Eltham is a somewhat grim suburb, with nothing particular to distinguish it, which makes arriving at Eltham Palace all the more remarkable. It's like stumbling upon a little oasis! Luscious green gardens, a moat and a bridge from the 1400s provide an enchanting welcome.

From Eltham Palace, London

From Eltham Palace, London

From Eltham Palace, London

The Art Deco interior of the Courtauld's home is also remarkable, but unfortunately photography is not allowed. However, you can see some photos on the English Heritage website.

After touring the residence and gardens, I hopped back on my bike and headed towards Woolwich ... grateful for the downward slope towards the river. I took the (free) Woolwich Ferry, which gives a good view of the Thames Barrier. Then it was through the industrialised district of Silvertown - lots of dirty and smelly factories, some now desolate. After cruising through more of the Docklands I arrived at East India Dock and then the more familiar surroundings at Limehouse, just a suburb away from home. All up a 30km ride! And all in one afternoon!

One thing is certain, no-one can say there's nothing to do in London!

London by bike

Every day tens of thousands of Londonders jump on a bicycle to commute to work, and this week I joined them on my new bike! 

Riding in London can be quite scary, as there are not nearly enough bike lanes and you're often forced to ride on busy roads and share bus lanes with taxis and London's much detested (so says Boris Johnson) bendy buses. And the quieter roads tend to be quite narrow with rough surfaces, particularly compared to those at home in Adelaide.

Nevertheless, there is a great sense of freedom on a bike with the wind in your face, and I'm sure one of the reasons a lot of drivers hate cyclists is because they're envious (particularly when you cycle past them in a traffic jam).

From Mile End, where I live, to work in Westminster is about 9km and I have managed to get my travel time down from 40 mins to about 30 mins by discovering shortcuts during the week. That's almost the same time it takes door-to-door when I travel by Tube!

There's something to be said for cycling past the Tower of London, Somerset House and parallel to the Thames each day, with Big Ben and The Eye coming into view as I approach work. I have also discovered buildings and streets I never knew existed, as you're oblivious to exactly where you're travelling when using the Underground.

Hopefully I can maintain my enthusiasm and get fit while I'm at it!

Words

It takes a while to get used to all the different terms/words they use here in the UK compared to Australia. Some of them make sense, for example, crisps (which everyone seems to eat with their lunch) instead of potato chips, removing any confusion between potato chips and hot chips. Others are just different like peppers for capsicum, clementines for mandarins, aubergine for eggplant, courgette for zucchini and mange-tout for snow peas. One I don't understand is why they call a burger a sandwich! So if you go to Burger King, a Whopper is a sandwich, not a hamburger. Strange!  

Bad habits, manners and attitudes

One of the grottier habits that I've noticed in London is spitting. People of all ages and backgrounds think nothing of spitting on the footpath, road and even the Tube platform. Personally I think it's vile and unnecessary, yet no one here seems to frown upon it. Another rude trait is carelessly bumping into people. This happens a lot when walking down the street and the perpetrators don't even try to move out of your way (they expect you to move out of their way) and when they bang into you just keep going without a care ... no hint of apology, not even an acknowledgement that they've just run into you. This arrogant sort of attitude really irks me. Courtesy costs nothing yet the bad manners and habits of some leaves me wondering just how civilised a society we are.

Aussie twang

When you work with a lot of English people, you quickly become accustomed to their accents, to the extent that you don't notice English accents anymore. Moreover, you assume that you sound like everyone else and forget you have an Australian accent. I think this comes back to self-perception: No one thinks they have an accent - everyone else has an accent! That all changes when another Australian comes on the scene. One develops a remarkable ability to identify other Australians - even on a packed bus you instantly pick out anyone with an Aussie twang. It's really comforting to find another Australian in this way and I often feel a bizarre sense of affinity as if we have a collective bond.

But the opposite can also be true. Soon after I arrived I was taking a look around Soho early on a Saturday night when I came across a loud (yelling), obnoxious bunch of morons staggering up the street. They were completely smashed (at 6pm) and although in their early twenties, were carrying on like teenagers. Everyone was avoiding them: it was cringeworthy. But then I realised one of them was wrapped in an Australian flag! (This was before I developed instant perception of Aussie accents). They were all Australian! I felt embarrassed and ashamed. A uni friend encountered a similar group on the Tube and was so embarrassed by their behavior that when they asked whether she was also Australian, she told them she was from New Zealand! 

I guess these sorts of encounters help create the image of Australians as beer-swilling louts. It is easy to stereotype in this way when people stand out because of their accent (or appearance). Yet I would argue (from what I have experienced, not just seen and heard) that regular drinking is far more ingrained in English than Australian culture.

The Chilterns

Decided to make the most of the milder weather (12C!) by heading off on another walk through the English countryside. This time I headed to Chesham, north west of London. Chesham is the furthest station (40km) from central London on the Underground, although like much of the Tube it's actually above ground.

Chesham is in the Chiltern Hills (the Chilterns for short). It is bizarre to be on a Tube train but travelling through pretty woods and rural countryside!

After a quick stroll through the town centre I headed into the green fields and light woods that dominate the area, and even made some friends ...

From The Chilterns

It was a pleasant walk. Everything (the environment and houses) felt very English.

From The Chilterns

After my dramas finding somewhere to eat in Surrey (the pub in the walking book had recently shut down), I started getting antsy about making it to the recommended eating venue (The Pheasant Inn). My destination came into sight with half an hour to spare before lunch service was due to end. But my enthusiasm was short lived ... it was dark and deserted with a note on the door. Surely not again!!! "The Pheasant Inn has been closed due to to the economic downturn." Bloody recession!!! I spoke to a local who told me there was nowhere I could buy food within 1.5 miles! Downcast, I trudged to a nearby playground to munch on my packed apple.

On with the journey! Through muddy woods I went, past farmers' fields and birds in bushes. It didn't take too long to arrive at my destination, Great Missenden, home to Roald Dahl until his death in 1990. I found a little cafe and rewarded my efforts in walking 10km with rhubarb pie. Yum!

From The Chilterns

Then the train (a regular one, not the Tube) home!

From The Chilterns

Bout of black snot

I have had my first noticeable bout of black snot. Black what, you say? Yes, it is as icky as it sounds. It's a common symptom of catching the London Undeground. All the grime and black dust in the underground tunnels gets up your nose and then comes out again! Ewww!

A taste of summer

It almost felt like summer today. In reality, it only got to about 12C but with a clear sky and radiant sun, this was probably the most glorious day in three months! I made the most of it by heading west and walking across London's oldest suspension bridge, Hammersmith Bridge. From here I strolled the muddy (but pleasant) tree-lined path along the Thames to Barnes, a pretty village-like suburb. A great way to spend an "almost summer" day, made even more appealing by teams of rowers gliding past. Next I caught the train to Clapham Junction (which oddly enough is in Battersea, not Clapham) to read The Times with a latte (yes, I wanted to sound pretentious) before heading home to Mile End. Let's hope there's more weather like this in coming weeks. Seems to make everyone a touch cheerier and shows how lovely London can be!

The day London stopped

When I stepped outside today into a crunchy expanse of 20cm thick snow, I felt a bit like Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz: "Toto, I've a feeling we're not in England anymore!"

But it seemed Toto was nowhere to be seen ... no doubt he was lost in the depths of untouched snow that lay before me. I headed straight back inside. The situation called for waterproof boots and extra layers!

From Snowy London

But this was only to be the start of an unbelievable adventure just to get to work. After trudging through snow and sludge, I arrived at Mile End Underground Station, along with a few hundred others queued at the entrance. The gates were drawn and they were only letting a few people in at a time. The "adverse weather conditions" had shut down the District and Hammersmith & City lines, all London buses had been suspended, while the Central Line had only about one train every 20 minutes ... normally there's one every 2-3 minutes and even they're packed!

It felt like being in a post-apocalyptic movie. The masses surged forward in a desperate struggle every time the staff let people into the station. Thirty minutes later I made it down to the platform, which also felt surreal. An empty District Line train stood opposite with darkened windows, thick snow on the roof, and water running down its sides as the snow melted.

Eventually I managed to get on a train and make it to Tottenham Court Road for the 20 min walk to Westminster. The snow gave the city a new look.

From Snowy London

Apparently it was the heaviest snow London has experienced in 18 years! What a contrast to the heatwave in Australia. We are a world of extremes.

From Snowy London

About one-and-a-half hours after leaving the front door, I arrived at the office. An Arctic effort!

According to news reports, only about one-in-five Londoners made it to work. Most people stayed home because they had no way to get in. There were announcements in my office about numerous services like the canteen being shut for the day. One bizarre announcement stated: "The post room is open but there will be no mail delivery." Useful!

After putting in a few hours I was sent home early because of predicted heavy snow falls this evening. Managed to snap a few landmarks on my way back to Mile End.

From Snowy London

From Snowy London

From Snowy London

I love the snow but am hoping London's transport system is in better condition tomorrow!

P.S. I will go crazy if I hear the term "due to adverse weather conditions" again. Braved the snow and slush this evening, taking a Tube and then the Docklands Light Railway (DLR) to get to the cinemas at Canary Wharf (still no buses), only to discover a sign on the door that no films were showing after 7:30pm "due to adverse weather conditions"! London really has ground to a halt!

Mushy food

The English are known for their fish and chips but it would seem that we Australians have really improved on this British creation. The chips they serve here are soggy! And having checked with locals, this is how they're meant to be. Whereas in Australia, when they're done right, chips are crisp and golden on the outside but soft and tender within. I much prefer the Australian way.

I will admit that fish and chip shops here do sell a rather wonderful taste sensation that you will be hard pressed to find in Australia ... mushy peas. It doesn't sound all that appealing, but they're gooey and delicious and make the perfect bed for a fillet of grilled salmon or trout.  You can buy them canned at the supermarket to make just such a meal (one of my new favourites) and the good news is they even count as a serve of vegetables!

Australia Day

What better way to win people over than through their stomachs? So it was that I introduced my English work colleagues to great Aussie snacks for Australia Day. Barbecue Shapes, Twisties, Tim Tams and Vegemite coated Saos were the order of the day. However, the clear standout was the homemade Anzac biscuits I whipped up in the kitchen yesterday. Somehow I managed to use just the right amount of Golden Syrup needed to achieve the perfect consistency ... a little crunchiness on the outside but soft and slightly gooey inside. So moreish. A hit! 

Mr Bean

I saw a peculiar sign today in Knightsbridge. It stated: No vehicles permitted except invalid carriages. At first I thought this was a politically incorrect euphemism for wheelchairs, but then I discovered it referred to Mr Bean's car! Well, not his car per se, but a three-wheel low-cost vehicle provided in the 1960s and 1970s for people with disabilities. Maybe useful to know for a trivia night!

City of contrasts

One of my favourite things about London is how extraordinarily different each of its boroughs (council districts) are. I love taking the Tube somewhere random and popping up at ground level to explore unfamiliar surroundings. Today I headed to Belsize Park, a semi-posh suburb in north-west London. I found a cafe in the high street and plonked myself down to watch passers-by and read The Times (sounds like such an English pastime!). 

Over the past two months I have tried to get around, visiting places including Borough (near London Bridge), Hampstead (more upmarket than Belsize Park), Notting Hill (no, I did not see Hugh Grant), Waterloo (yes, like the Abba song), South Kensington (really posh), Bromley-by-Bow (further east than Mile End and more suburban), Angel (trendy/cool), Regent's Park (so big!), Marylebone (lovely but expensive) and Battersea (south of the Thames and growing in popularity). I am always surprised when I surface from the Tube by the contrasting character of each suburb. Many boroughs look and feel remarkably different, in terms of building styles, people (some are overwhelmingly white, black or Asian) and vibe - it's as if you could be in another city or country when in fact you are within 10km of the centre of London. 

Today I strolled south from Belsize Park through Camden with its wonderful antique and clothing markets. Even these two miles illustrated the contrasting nature of this remarkable city.

Proper English grammar

The English like to consider themselves protectors of the English language and custodians of good grammar. Hence one encounters many archaic expressions like "This train is for Brighton" instead of something more accessible like "This train goes to Brighton". They also use traditionally English words like bespoke (custom-made) that you would never hear in Australia.

For this reason it annoys me when one of the nation's biggest supermarket chains uses a grammatically incorrect slogan. Tesco uses the following tagline in all its advertising: "Every little helps". Now I am sorry, but that is NOT a sentence! It has a verb (helps) but no clear subject or object! Every little what helps??? I know I am being anal, and the implication is that every little "bit" helps, but without stating this the sentence is nonsense. The English of all people should uphold the rules of their language! That's my little gripe for the day. Now someone is sure to pick up on something I've got wrong in this post. : )

The end of the Big Freeze

Today it should reach a cracking 8C in London! The ice in Regent's Canal in beginning to defrost and break up ...

From Mile End

It's been an interesting week for local wildlife which has had to learned to ice skate ...

From Mile End

Frozen fountains

One doesn't like to harp on about the weather, but the past week deserves mention. It has been the coldest week I have ever experienced! This was driven home to me when I discovered the canal outside my house had completely frozen over (in the daytime) as had the fountains in Trafalgar Square! Temperatures have sunk as a low as -6C overnight with daily maximums struggling to reach 3C. I don't think I shall ever again have reason to complain about winter in Adelaide, where the average temperature in July reaches a comparatively balmy 15C!

Austen, Woolf and a country stroll

I have started falling into the trap of letting the cold keep me indoors, where I invariably overeat and watch trashy television! That said, it does take a determined effort to get out and about in the weather ... today it was 2C and Regent's Canal was completely frozen over!

I am trying to make the most of the thermals I bought for Norway so that I can get out and see the countryside. Last week I went for a stroll at Box Hill and Westhumble in Surrey. A pretty if foggy destination that feels far removed from London yet is less than an hour away by train.

From Surrey, UK

Box Hill features in Jane Austen's novels, as I pleasantly discovered while watching a remake of Emma in which a party of characters enjoyed a picnic atop the hill.

Keeping with my literary theme (albeit unintentionally) I ventured to Lewes in East Sussex at the weekend for an ambitious 15km hike! The walk (from the book Time Out Country Walks near London, Vol 2) took me through green pastures, past horses and cows, up a large hill with views across the South Downs and eventually to the village of Rodmell where I was keenly anticipating a hearty pub meal. 

From The South Downs

With a sinking stomach I discovered a note on the door declaring the Abergavenny Arms had closed down two days earlier "due to circumstances beyond" the owners' control! I was much disheartened, particularly as this was the only place in Rodmell to purchase food or drink! Determined and desperate, I set out on the 5km "post lunch" walk to Lewes. The route took me past Monk's House, the modest country retreat where Virginia Woolf and her husband Leonard spent much of their time and entertained T.S. Elliot and other members of the Bloomsbury Group. Most of my journey was along the banks of the River Ouse, into which Woolf waded with her pockets full of stones. Although my spirits were somewhat downtrodden I had no intentions of going near the freezing water!

From The South Downs

By the time I reached Lewes I was starving and incredibly thirsty (having taken just a small bottle of water and muesli bar). Next time I shall take decent provisions! Nonetheless it was a pleasant outing and a great way to discover life beyond London.