London - a city like no other

London never ceases to surprise and astound me. Despite it's many flaws, it has so much to offer, and it only takes a little effort to reap its rewards. Today I decided to hop on my bike and head somewhere new - Eltham in the city's south east. My destination: Eltham Palace, combining the remains of a medieval royal palace (where Henry VIII spent much of his childhood) with the glamorous Art Deco home of textile magnates Stephen and Virginia Courtauld. But, as I have discovered is often the way in London, the journey was as rewarding as the destination!

Travelling by bike gives you a real feel for suburbs you pass, perhaps more so than speeding through in a car, train or bus. It was my first time traversing the Isle of Dogs (other than on the DLR) before descending into the Greenwich foot tunnel ... what a cool, little tunnel ... like something out of the war! In fact it was built before either of the Great Wars, opening in 1902.

Emerging at Greenwich, one is presented with a plethora of appetising smells, with cuisines from across the world at the local markets. I went for a Peruvian chicken and rice dish. Very tasty! Meantime one gets a superb view across the river to Canary Wharf.

From London and Paris

From Greenwich I tackled a very steep hill (on top of which sits Greenwich Observatory) before heading through Black Heath and a wide range of suburbs, eventually reaching Eltham (almost 15km from Mile End). Eltham is a somewhat grim suburb, with nothing particular to distinguish it, which makes arriving at Eltham Palace all the more remarkable. It's like stumbling upon a little oasis! Luscious green gardens, a moat and a bridge from the 1400s provide an enchanting welcome.

From Eltham Palace, London

From Eltham Palace, London

From Eltham Palace, London

The Art Deco interior of the Courtauld's home is also remarkable, but unfortunately photography is not allowed. However, you can see some photos on the English Heritage website.

After touring the residence and gardens, I hopped back on my bike and headed towards Woolwich ... grateful for the downward slope towards the river. I took the (free) Woolwich Ferry, which gives a good view of the Thames Barrier. Then it was through the industrialised district of Silvertown - lots of dirty and smelly factories, some now desolate. After cruising through more of the Docklands I arrived at East India Dock and then the more familiar surroundings at Limehouse, just a suburb away from home. All up a 30km ride! And all in one afternoon!

One thing is certain, no-one can say there's nothing to do in London!