Visiting Auschwitz

Auschwitz is an extraordinary testament to the horrors man is capable of inflicting on his own kind.

From Auschwitz

After visiting Auschwitz I, the original concentration camp, and Auschwitz II-Birkenau, the much larger extermination camp, the tour guide asked whether anyone had any questions. Silence. But it wasn't that no one had any questions - it's just that they were not the sort of questions that even the most worldly guide could answer. How could humans treat others in such appalling and shocking ways and think it right? How could a society come to the collective view that an entire race was sub-human and inferior, yet also a threat that needed to be destroyed? How could fellow humans devise such a sophisticated operation - and on such a grand a scale - with the explicit aim of murdering hundreds of thousands of people?

They're not questions I've been able to answer and nor do I expect to be able to.

There is a lot of expectation around visiting Auschwitz, which as incongruous as it sounds, is one of Poland's top tourist attractions. Visiting Auschwitz I, originally established as Polish army barracks, is somewhat surreal - partly because you come with ideas about what happened here, but also because it is so familiar from films.

From Auschwitz

A guide takes you through the permanent exhibition, housed in blocks where prisoners once lived. The numbers are almost beyond comprehension: more than one million people were killed in the gas chambers at Auschwitz and Birkenau. So for me it was the individual details that had the most impact. One of the exhibits is called "Physical evidence of crime", which sounds quite cold and factual and does little to prepare you for what's inside. The displays contain items seized from Jews including suitcases (labelled by their owners, some with dates and names), toothbrushes, shoes (even very small children's shoes), and a 30-metre long case filled with human hair - which the Nazis gathered from people before and after they were killed and used to make army blankets. There are also photos of prisoners brought to Auschwitz with the date of their arrival and the date of their death - many only lasted a month or two because of the appalling conditions. These individual details brought home to me the people behind the numbers and the awful things that happened to them.

Next was a trip to Block 11 - the prison within a prison where people were brought for extreme punishment, which included death by starvation or being placed in a tiny (1.5 square metres) "standing cell" which accommodated four men at a time, all standing up in the dark. They had to work in the camp during the day and then stay in the standing cells overnight.

This was followed by a visit to the only remaining gas chamber, which operated from 1941 to 1942, during which time some 60,000 people were killed. This was another sombre experience. You know what has happened to others on the spot you stand, but cannot fathom what they must have gone through. Most of the gas chambers were destroyed by the Nazis before the Soviet troops arrived, however the chamber at Auschwitz I survives because it was converted into an air-raid shelter for the use by the SS.

From Auschwitz

From Auschwitz

The Nazis attempted to destroy a lot of the evidence of their atrocities, which begs another question - surely they knew what they were doing was wrong? Or were they convinced the rest of the world was wrong?

After visiting Auschwitz I, it is a short bus ride to Auschwitz II-Birkenau. Transport trains from across Nazi-occupied Europe delivered Jews to Birkenau to be killed in one of its five gas chambers.

Having appreciated some of the personal aspects of the victims of Auschwitz, the sight of Birkenau was overwhelming. Birkenau is huge, its fence-line barely visible in the distance. The railway delivered its human cargo through the "Death Gate" and onto the platform where SS doctors decided whether new arrivals were fit to work. Those who weren't, including almost all children, women with children, and the elderly, were sent straight to the gas chambers. Auschwitz II-Birkenau claimed more victims than any other German extermination camp, despite coming into use after all the others. This was a place designed for murder on a massive scale.

From Auschwitz

From Auschwitz

It is easy to label the Nazis as evil. But what does that really mean? To me it seems a convenient way of distancing one's self and humans in general from their behaviour. The scarier challenge is to accept that tens of millions of people, people like you and me, came to be involved and support the actions of the Nazis one way or another - or for the most part did nothing to stop it.

Similarly, it is comforting after a visit to Auschwitz to think "I would never treat another human like that". But how can you be sure? Is there any way to know how you would react in an extreme situation or circumstance unless you have experienced it? Would you really be among the few who stand up to disagree with the majority or take action against it ... particularly if the risk of doing so could be death? It is reassuring to think so, but history casts doubt over our certainty.

Auschwitz is a horrifying reminder of what we are capable of.

London in winter

I realise it's been a long time between posts. Months in fact. And it's not that nothing has happened since I came back from my trip to Italy in October. London has offered up all manner of surprises and things to do, and that probably has to be my excuse ... I've been too busy to write! One highlight was my first traditional English Christmas lunch (turkey with all the trimmings) on Christmas Day at a friend's parents' house. And just as well it was a hot lunch, and this winter has been one of the coldest on record. Christmas wasn't white, but there have been quite a few weeks since when it has been! Lots of snow - at least by London standards - and sub-zero temperatures that meant it stuck around. The highlight for me was a group walk I joined in the South Downs near Brighton. I have never been hiking in such deep snow, at some points it went above knee-level! It was glorious! The walk was to a place called Devil's Dyke (see photo below). And we ended the day (appropriately) with mulled cider, chilli con carne and hot mince pies.

A smattering of white did make London look pretty too (even the rubbish looks nice below), although the novelty wore off after a few weeks. It was just so cold and the footpaths were covered in ice. Very slippery!

Here's a photo from Mile End Park (which I walk through if I catch the Tube):

On the cultural side, it's also been a busy few weeks. Before Christmas I saw the musicals Priscilla: Queen of the Dessert and Mama Mia! (having seen the Australian versions in Sydney, both London productions were very enjoyable), and since Christmas I have seen Cat On A Hot Tin Roof with James Earl Jones (got a well deserved standing ovation) and a black comedy which has just opened in the West End, The Little Dog Laughed. I laughed a lot! One really is spoilt for choice in London! I often wish my bank balance could accommodate more of it! Oh, and I musn't forget that I saw Her Majesty! Yes, in November I saw The Queen on her way to open Parliament. Notably, only myself and the other Australian at my work bothered to go outside to see Her Highness pass by in a horse-drawn carriage. I suppose coming from one of the colonies (as my colleagues sometimes call Australia), it was something special.

I've now been in London about 16 months and I am still excited by discovering new places that are almost on my doorstep! For example, I went on a great hike through Epping Forest - a fascinating and huge woodland just 30 minutes away by Tube!

Today I took my bike on a 40-minute train ride to Tilbury in Essex. I then rode to nearby Tilbury Fort, located on the Thames and which protected London's seaward approach from the 16th century through to World War II. It even has moats as part of its defences and a fascinating history. On 9 August 1588, Queen Elizabeth went to Tilbury and rallied her army to face the threat of the Armada, but of course they never made it anywhere near the Thames.

Here was her inpsiring speech:

My loving people, we have been persuaded by some that we are careful of our safety, to take heed how we commit ourselves to armed multitudes for fear of treachery; but, I do assure you, I do not desire to live to distrust my faithful and loving people. Let tyrants fear, I have always so behaved myself, that under God I have placed my chiefest strength and safeguard in the loyal hearts and goodwill of my subjects; and, therefore, I am come amongst you as you see at this time, not for my recreation and disport, but being resolved, in the midst and heat of battle, to live or die amongst you all — to lay down for my God, and for my kingdoms, and for my people, my honour and my blood even in the dust. I know I have the body of a weak and feeble woman; but I have the heart and stomach of a king — and of a King of England too, and think foul scorn that Parma or Spain, or any prince of Europe, should dare to invade the borders of my realm; to which, rather than any dishonour should grow by me, I myself will take up arms — I myself will be your general, judge, and rewarder of every one of your virtues in the field. I know already, for your forwardness, you have deserved rewards and crowns, and, we do assure you, on the word of a prince, they shall be duly paid you."

The Gods smiled on South East England today, bringing sun and 7C for my little jaunt. It felt quite warm compared to what it has been! Here's a picture taken from Tilbury Fort:

Even if you had a whole lifetime, and despite its small size (especially compared to Australia), I think you'd struggle to visit all of England's important historical sites. Certainly keeps me captivated!

Arrivederci Italia!

With a hint of sadness I said my goodbyes to Vernazza (by climbing up to the cemetery for a final view of the pretty harbour) before boarding the train north to Milan. I timed my departure well. The temperature has been consistently in the mid 20s and mainly sunny throughout my two weeks in Italy, but on this day it started raining. The train afforded some fantastic views of the Ligurian coastline, with waves pounding the shore and rain belting down. The scenery as we approached Genoa was wonderful. Then the train headed inland through lots of tunnels and mountains towards Milan.

My arrival in Milan late in the afternoon meant I only had time to visit the city's famed Duomo. Despite having seen countless cathedrals, the Gothic style, sumptuously detailed facade and embellished interior ensured it stood out from others in Italy.

From Milan

There is a fascinating sculpture of St Bartholomew carrying his own skin! You can also walk onto the cathedral's roof for great views of Milan and a close-up view of otherwise unseen sculptures, and pinnacles and spires set upon flying buttresses.

I ended the day by strolling through the shopping district (window shopping only, unfortunately) and then found a pizza place that made the biggest pizzas I've ever seen! It did not fit on the plate! Although I have eaten more than my fair share of pizzas, they are the cheapest dining option in Italy.

The following day I began my marathon journey back to London by train ... well, three long-distance and two underground trains actually! The first took me past gorgeous Lake Maggiore (not far from Lake Como) through the Simplon Tunnel (one of the longest railway tunnels in the world at almost 20km) into the Swiss Alps. After swapping for a Swiss train crew and engines, the train weaved its way through valleys to Lake Geneva, the largest natural freshwater lake in western Europe. Another beautiful site. I got off in Lausanne, and stepped for the first time onto Swiss soil (if only for a brief sojourn outside the train station).

Next was the French TGV, and another change of scenery as the train headed through farmland and vineyards in Burgundy (stopping in Dijon) and finally onto Paris. I navigated my way by the underground RER train from Gare de Lyon to Gare du Nord for the Eurostar to London.

I left Milan about 8:30am and by the time I arrived home in London it was almost 10:30pm. A long day, covering four countries and an estimated 1140km, but worth it for the views! A fairly relaxing way to see quite a bit of western Europe, and with a small carbon footprint compared to flying. I wish I was a man of leisure and had unlimited funds to travel forever, but alas, it's back to work tomorrow. So, this blog can once more become "Musings on London life", as promised. : )

Into the big, deep blue

Today I went swimming in the Mediterranean. After sleeping and waking to the soothing sound of the sea, I decided to go swim in it (having completed the Cinque Terre trail in one day and with nothing else on the itinerary). But I decided I wanted to go a quiet beach, and that is something most Cinque Terre beaches are not. Vernazza has a tiny little beach in the harbour, but the harbour is surrounded by a piazza with restaurants, and hence lots of tourists. Monterosso, one town north, has long sandy beaches, but is the most popular swimming destination in the area, and as I saw yesterday is swarming with visitors for the most of the day. Therefore I decided to go to a beach I spotted on the Cinque Terre walk between Corniglia and Vernazza that I’d read about.

I figured not many people would be bothered to make a trek to go to a beach. I was right. There was just me and three others! So it was lovely and secluded, although rocky (lots of little pebbles), a bit like English beaches I suppose. It was also arduous to reach, having to clamber down the side of very steep hill and across shale on precarious, scary cliff edges, which looked subject to landslips. However, (as the fact I’m writing this) I made it down safely although sweaty. And I went swimming! Admittedly it took me about half an hour to fully immerse myself. It was a little cold and a little intimidating with no one else in the deeper water and just me and the Mediterranean, surrounded by lots of large rocks. I spent a good couple of hours there, mostly reading my book rather than in the water. Interestingly, the area is also known as a nudist beach, but this is optional, one I did not take up. A couple of others did! The journey back up the slope was even harder in the afternoon sun and I was drenched with sweat by the time I made it to Corniglia to catch the train back to Vernazza. I ended the day with a stroll around Vernazza, some bread and local pesto and the last drop of Cinque Terre wine!

From Cinque Terre

The Cinque Terre coastal walk

The Cinque Terre coastal walk is stunning. The path takes you up and down along the rugged coastline and to each of the five villages along the way, each with their own character. I had planned to do the walk over two days, but after making it from the southern most village of Riomaggiore to Vernazza, where I am staying, I decided to tackle the last (and hardest) stretch north to Monterosso on the same day. It took me about five hours, including photo stops and a coffee break, to cover the 9km. Pretty happy with that effort!

While the walk is lovely, don’t expect to be alone. I came across a couple of hundreds fellow walkers, mainly Americans and Germans (does Rick Steve have a German equivalent?!). The southern stretch of the walk is the easiest, with a wide, paved track, but this gradually becomes harder as you head north, the path becomes narrower and steeper, with hundreds of steps. There was a time when the path was the only way to travel between the villages. Nowadays the train covers the same distance in less than 20 minutes! But then the train doesn’t have to scarper up the cliffs, it goes straight through tunnels.

From Cinque Terre

The scariest section was between Vernazza and Monterosso, with lots of very narrow sections dropping steeply down one side. Unfortunately I encountered a very large student group in this area, having to wait for about 50 students to pass before being able to continue. The advantage of setting off early is that it was relatively quiet along the track and at the first couple of villages, but by the time I reached Vernazza, the place was packed with tourists. Many arrive by boat or train from nearby Portofino. The stretch of track between Vernazza and Monterosso was also the busiest (possibly because it was the afternoon), and tempered the experience to a degree. When I arrived in Monterosso, the largest of the towns, I couldn’t believe the number of school groups I found. Hundreds of students, almost all German (not sure why the Cinque Terre is such a destination for German students?). They left en masse on a ferry not long after I arrived.

From Cinque Terre

Now I am back at my room, sitting on the balcony listening to the waves crashing below and contemplating dinner. Oh, and I am sipping some of the local white wine. This is what they mean when they say Italians enjoy La Dolce Vita! Just what I needed after my jam-packed schedules in Venice, Florence and Rome.

Arriving in the Cinque Terre

The vagaries of the Italian transport system meant I arrived in the Cinque Terre (five villages) later than expected. The only way to reach most of these villages is by train, boat or on foot. All was quickly forgiven when I saw the view from my accommodation. After a steep climb up narrow, winding passages and dozens of steps through the village of Vernazza, I reached the little house where I was staying, perched on the side of a hill. Out the window, a glorious view of the Mediterranean. Beautiful! There’s something magical about water that fills me with a sense of serenity. I can hear the waves crashing on the rocks below my bedroom window now.

From Cinque Terre

The people of Vernazza have a lot to thank (or hate) Rick Steve for. His guidebooks have put the Cinque Terre on many traveller’s map, particularly with the US market. Consequently the place is full of (predominantly) American tourists, many bearing Rick Steve’s guides as evidence. And even though Vernazza has come to cater to the hundreds of tourists who visit each day, it has not lost its special charm. The cobbled pathways, quaint harbour, jagged cliffs and precariously perched houses create a wonderful ambiance. And the pesto (a local specialty) is delicious!

Rome: What lies beneath

I made a determined effort to fit in one more sight on my final afternoon: a church. Not another one, you may say. But this was unlike any other. It was a church, above a church, above a church. You start with the current Basilica of San Clemente, on ground level, and then descend and as you do go back in time to the basilica of the 4th Century. And if this wasn’t amazing enough, you go down again to find a pagan temple and other rooms from the 1st Century complete with their own running spring (which still flows). Out of nowhere, this late entry stormed to the front of the pack. What an awesome way to appreciate ancient Rome, and very much off most tourist itineraries. I will be recommending this experience to anyone visiting the Italian capital.