London in winter

I realise it's been a long time between posts. Months in fact. And it's not that nothing has happened since I came back from my trip to Italy in October. London has offered up all manner of surprises and things to do, and that probably has to be my excuse ... I've been too busy to write! One highlight was my first traditional English Christmas lunch (turkey with all the trimmings) on Christmas Day at a friend's parents' house. And just as well it was a hot lunch, and this winter has been one of the coldest on record. Christmas wasn't white, but there have been quite a few weeks since when it has been! Lots of snow - at least by London standards - and sub-zero temperatures that meant it stuck around. The highlight for me was a group walk I joined in the South Downs near Brighton. I have never been hiking in such deep snow, at some points it went above knee-level! It was glorious! The walk was to a place called Devil's Dyke (see photo below). And we ended the day (appropriately) with mulled cider, chilli con carne and hot mince pies.

A smattering of white did make London look pretty too (even the rubbish looks nice below), although the novelty wore off after a few weeks. It was just so cold and the footpaths were covered in ice. Very slippery!

Here's a photo from Mile End Park (which I walk through if I catch the Tube):

On the cultural side, it's also been a busy few weeks. Before Christmas I saw the musicals Priscilla: Queen of the Dessert and Mama Mia! (having seen the Australian versions in Sydney, both London productions were very enjoyable), and since Christmas I have seen Cat On A Hot Tin Roof with James Earl Jones (got a well deserved standing ovation) and a black comedy which has just opened in the West End, The Little Dog Laughed. I laughed a lot! One really is spoilt for choice in London! I often wish my bank balance could accommodate more of it! Oh, and I musn't forget that I saw Her Majesty! Yes, in November I saw The Queen on her way to open Parliament. Notably, only myself and the other Australian at my work bothered to go outside to see Her Highness pass by in a horse-drawn carriage. I suppose coming from one of the colonies (as my colleagues sometimes call Australia), it was something special.

I've now been in London about 16 months and I am still excited by discovering new places that are almost on my doorstep! For example, I went on a great hike through Epping Forest - a fascinating and huge woodland just 30 minutes away by Tube!

Today I took my bike on a 40-minute train ride to Tilbury in Essex. I then rode to nearby Tilbury Fort, located on the Thames and which protected London's seaward approach from the 16th century through to World War II. It even has moats as part of its defences and a fascinating history. On 9 August 1588, Queen Elizabeth went to Tilbury and rallied her army to face the threat of the Armada, but of course they never made it anywhere near the Thames.

Here was her inpsiring speech:

My loving people, we have been persuaded by some that we are careful of our safety, to take heed how we commit ourselves to armed multitudes for fear of treachery; but, I do assure you, I do not desire to live to distrust my faithful and loving people. Let tyrants fear, I have always so behaved myself, that under God I have placed my chiefest strength and safeguard in the loyal hearts and goodwill of my subjects; and, therefore, I am come amongst you as you see at this time, not for my recreation and disport, but being resolved, in the midst and heat of battle, to live or die amongst you all — to lay down for my God, and for my kingdoms, and for my people, my honour and my blood even in the dust. I know I have the body of a weak and feeble woman; but I have the heart and stomach of a king — and of a King of England too, and think foul scorn that Parma or Spain, or any prince of Europe, should dare to invade the borders of my realm; to which, rather than any dishonour should grow by me, I myself will take up arms — I myself will be your general, judge, and rewarder of every one of your virtues in the field. I know already, for your forwardness, you have deserved rewards and crowns, and, we do assure you, on the word of a prince, they shall be duly paid you."

The Gods smiled on South East England today, bringing sun and 7C for my little jaunt. It felt quite warm compared to what it has been! Here's a picture taken from Tilbury Fort:

Even if you had a whole lifetime, and despite its small size (especially compared to Australia), I think you'd struggle to visit all of England's important historical sites. Certainly keeps me captivated!

The day London stopped

When I stepped outside today into a crunchy expanse of 20cm thick snow, I felt a bit like Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz: "Toto, I've a feeling we're not in England anymore!"

But it seemed Toto was nowhere to be seen ... no doubt he was lost in the depths of untouched snow that lay before me. I headed straight back inside. The situation called for waterproof boots and extra layers!

From Snowy London

But this was only to be the start of an unbelievable adventure just to get to work. After trudging through snow and sludge, I arrived at Mile End Underground Station, along with a few hundred others queued at the entrance. The gates were drawn and they were only letting a few people in at a time. The "adverse weather conditions" had shut down the District and Hammersmith & City lines, all London buses had been suspended, while the Central Line had only about one train every 20 minutes ... normally there's one every 2-3 minutes and even they're packed!

It felt like being in a post-apocalyptic movie. The masses surged forward in a desperate struggle every time the staff let people into the station. Thirty minutes later I made it down to the platform, which also felt surreal. An empty District Line train stood opposite with darkened windows, thick snow on the roof, and water running down its sides as the snow melted.

Eventually I managed to get on a train and make it to Tottenham Court Road for the 20 min walk to Westminster. The snow gave the city a new look.

From Snowy London

Apparently it was the heaviest snow London has experienced in 18 years! What a contrast to the heatwave in Australia. We are a world of extremes.

From Snowy London

About one-and-a-half hours after leaving the front door, I arrived at the office. An Arctic effort!

According to news reports, only about one-in-five Londoners made it to work. Most people stayed home because they had no way to get in. There were announcements in my office about numerous services like the canteen being shut for the day. One bizarre announcement stated: "The post room is open but there will be no mail delivery." Useful!

After putting in a few hours I was sent home early because of predicted heavy snow falls this evening. Managed to snap a few landmarks on my way back to Mile End.

From Snowy London

From Snowy London

From Snowy London

I love the snow but am hoping London's transport system is in better condition tomorrow!

P.S. I will go crazy if I hear the term "due to adverse weather conditions" again. Braved the snow and slush this evening, taking a Tube and then the Docklands Light Railway (DLR) to get to the cinemas at Canary Wharf (still no buses), only to discover a sign on the door that no films were showing after 7:30pm "due to adverse weather conditions"! London really has ground to a halt!