Into the big, deep blue

Today I went swimming in the Mediterranean. After sleeping and waking to the soothing sound of the sea, I decided to go swim in it (having completed the Cinque Terre trail in one day and with nothing else on the itinerary). But I decided I wanted to go a quiet beach, and that is something most Cinque Terre beaches are not. Vernazza has a tiny little beach in the harbour, but the harbour is surrounded by a piazza with restaurants, and hence lots of tourists. Monterosso, one town north, has long sandy beaches, but is the most popular swimming destination in the area, and as I saw yesterday is swarming with visitors for the most of the day. Therefore I decided to go to a beach I spotted on the Cinque Terre walk between Corniglia and Vernazza that I’d read about.

I figured not many people would be bothered to make a trek to go to a beach. I was right. There was just me and three others! So it was lovely and secluded, although rocky (lots of little pebbles), a bit like English beaches I suppose. It was also arduous to reach, having to clamber down the side of very steep hill and across shale on precarious, scary cliff edges, which looked subject to landslips. However, (as the fact I’m writing this) I made it down safely although sweaty. And I went swimming! Admittedly it took me about half an hour to fully immerse myself. It was a little cold and a little intimidating with no one else in the deeper water and just me and the Mediterranean, surrounded by lots of large rocks. I spent a good couple of hours there, mostly reading my book rather than in the water. Interestingly, the area is also known as a nudist beach, but this is optional, one I did not take up. A couple of others did! The journey back up the slope was even harder in the afternoon sun and I was drenched with sweat by the time I made it to Corniglia to catch the train back to Vernazza. I ended the day with a stroll around Vernazza, some bread and local pesto and the last drop of Cinque Terre wine!

From Cinque Terre

The Cinque Terre coastal walk

The Cinque Terre coastal walk is stunning. The path takes you up and down along the rugged coastline and to each of the five villages along the way, each with their own character. I had planned to do the walk over two days, but after making it from the southern most village of Riomaggiore to Vernazza, where I am staying, I decided to tackle the last (and hardest) stretch north to Monterosso on the same day. It took me about five hours, including photo stops and a coffee break, to cover the 9km. Pretty happy with that effort!

While the walk is lovely, don’t expect to be alone. I came across a couple of hundreds fellow walkers, mainly Americans and Germans (does Rick Steve have a German equivalent?!). The southern stretch of the walk is the easiest, with a wide, paved track, but this gradually becomes harder as you head north, the path becomes narrower and steeper, with hundreds of steps. There was a time when the path was the only way to travel between the villages. Nowadays the train covers the same distance in less than 20 minutes! But then the train doesn’t have to scarper up the cliffs, it goes straight through tunnels.

From Cinque Terre

The scariest section was between Vernazza and Monterosso, with lots of very narrow sections dropping steeply down one side. Unfortunately I encountered a very large student group in this area, having to wait for about 50 students to pass before being able to continue. The advantage of setting off early is that it was relatively quiet along the track and at the first couple of villages, but by the time I reached Vernazza, the place was packed with tourists. Many arrive by boat or train from nearby Portofino. The stretch of track between Vernazza and Monterosso was also the busiest (possibly because it was the afternoon), and tempered the experience to a degree. When I arrived in Monterosso, the largest of the towns, I couldn’t believe the number of school groups I found. Hundreds of students, almost all German (not sure why the Cinque Terre is such a destination for German students?). They left en masse on a ferry not long after I arrived.

From Cinque Terre

Now I am back at my room, sitting on the balcony listening to the waves crashing below and contemplating dinner. Oh, and I am sipping some of the local white wine. This is what they mean when they say Italians enjoy La Dolce Vita! Just what I needed after my jam-packed schedules in Venice, Florence and Rome.

Arriving in the Cinque Terre

The vagaries of the Italian transport system meant I arrived in the Cinque Terre (five villages) later than expected. The only way to reach most of these villages is by train, boat or on foot. All was quickly forgiven when I saw the view from my accommodation. After a steep climb up narrow, winding passages and dozens of steps through the village of Vernazza, I reached the little house where I was staying, perched on the side of a hill. Out the window, a glorious view of the Mediterranean. Beautiful! There’s something magical about water that fills me with a sense of serenity. I can hear the waves crashing on the rocks below my bedroom window now.

From Cinque Terre

The people of Vernazza have a lot to thank (or hate) Rick Steve for. His guidebooks have put the Cinque Terre on many traveller’s map, particularly with the US market. Consequently the place is full of (predominantly) American tourists, many bearing Rick Steve’s guides as evidence. And even though Vernazza has come to cater to the hundreds of tourists who visit each day, it has not lost its special charm. The cobbled pathways, quaint harbour, jagged cliffs and precariously perched houses create a wonderful ambiance. And the pesto (a local specialty) is delicious!